the road back to tokyo

so on the way back up i...

returned to kyoto to kick it with these guys at the local izakaya (johannes, the izakaya manager and taro)...

johannes, taro & izakaya manager
Originally uploaded by s_ritoper

visited kobe and ate korean bbq in koreatown in osaka with the tsuzukis, keiko-san and akira-san, my kaizuka host parents from back in middle school...

ready to eat Originally uploaded by s_ritoper

crashed my aunt's mah jong party...

DSCF1439 Originally uploaded by s_ritoper

went with my host sister ikue to the yokohama ramen museum (and theme park) for hokkaido style ramen (miso, butter chives... mmm)...

DSCF1452 Originally uploaded by s_ritoper

enjoyed keiko's fried chicken with her friends, noriko and hisae...

keiko and cool friends Originally uploaded by s_ritoper

along with, uh.. these guys..
(jack, clinton, leslie, lauren and your local mix of rockabillies)

IMG_1971.JPG Originally uploaded by jackjinlio

and embarked on random adventures with tammy in tokyo. a good companion even though she hums the japanese national anthem in her sleep. just kidding. gentlemen, any takers...?

tammy and me Originally uploaded by s_ritoper

tokyo, no goodbyes yet... i'll be back for more soon.

a flash of light

the tranquil sound of the river running through the center of hiroshima at dusk draws high school students to picnic under the bridge at night, and laughter echoes under the voice of a young woman who sings out into the dark, guitar strumming.

memories from the ground:
a flash of light.
impact.
loss of consciousness.
black rain.

toshiko saeki
"As I was running, I saw a mad naked man running from the opposite direction. This man held a piece of iron over his head as if to hide his face since he had nothing on his body, I felt embarrassed. And I turned my back to him. The man was passing by me, then, I don't know why, But I ran after him and I asked him to stop for a moment. I asked him, ``Which part of Hiroshima was attacked?'' Then the man put down the piece of iron and he started at me. He said, ``You're Toshiko, aren't you?'' He said, ``Toshiko!''... Oh, I couldn't tell who he was right away. His face was so swollen I couldn't even tell whether his eyes were open. He called me, he said, ``It's me! It's me, Toshiko! You can't tell?'' Then I recognized him. He was my second eldest brother."

akiko takakura
"Maybe I didn't catch enough rain, but I still felt very thirsty and there was nothing I could do about it. What I felt at that moment was that Hiroshima was entirely covered with only three colors. I remember red, black and brown, but, but, nothing else. Many people on the street were killed almost instantly. The fingertips of those dead bodies caught fire and the fire gradually spread over their entire bodies from their fingers. A light gray liquid dripped down their hands, scorching their fingers. I, I was so shocked to know that fingers and bodies could be burned and deformed like that. I just couldn't believe it. It was horrible. And looking at it, it was more than painful for me to think how the fingers were burned, hands and fingers that would hold babies or turn pages, they just, they just burned away."

survivors talk.

from the ground:
hair falls out in chunks.
a young boy vomits up his own organs before passing away.
family members' remains are found.
and then the tears.
the nightmares.
years of healing.

what now, do we remember?

whose mother takes shelter in a desert home to cry quietly after our oblivion drops?

hiroshima mayor, tadatoshi akiba's speech.

oishii...

imagine you discovered that you had family in japan. imagine that they were breadmakers in a countryside town nestled in a quaint valley between immense green grassy mountains. learn that while you were rolling your tricycle around paved streets in the neighborhood, cousins grew up catching bugs in tall nets and watching fireflies dance over the river in mid-june. and then take a train and arrive at their doorstep. speak japanese. make bread.

shigenori-san is a breadmaker trained in france and germany, whose renowned bread shop is indicated on the yufuin city map. those in the know come early. at opening time customers lined up outside the door flood in. the first hour is a flurried rush of "irashaiimase!!" and customers requesting bag fulls of the different kinds of specialty bread. one favorite, "raisin cabocha" (raisin pumpkin bread with a just a hint of sweetness), sells out in a matter of minutes. in the afternoon, it's an-pan fresh out of the oven, a japanese specialty, small round buns with the outsides slightly toasted, and inside warm azuki bean (red bean) filling.

and then there's me, bagging bread trying frantically to keep up with the "hitotsu"/"futatsu", "iko"/"niko" requests, and trying not to make it overly obvious that i don't know what i'm doing.

midori-san, my mother's cousin, is immensely friendly and willing to strike up conversation at any given time with friends, neighbors, shopowners. she takes me around and introduces me with with something to the tune of, "this is stefanie, from america. she's staying with us." and as their eyes get wide, she adds, "nandemo tabemasu!" (she will eat anything.)

and man did i eat.

one of the regional specialties is river fish, particularly ayu ("sweetfish") and yamame. midori and shigenori take me out to eat one night, and we drive up the winding road to yufuin to a two hundred year old house tucked into the hills. a stream runs alongside the house, and strategically placed boards and nets help to contain the fish so that they swim in circles right outside the back door of the house. just one woman runs the place, a middle aged woman with a warm smile, and after greeting us she ducks into the kitchen to catch and prepare our meal.

then she brings out dish after dish of river fish prepared in every possible way. there's shio yaki ayu, grilled and salted sweetfish that is prepared as if it's jumping off the plate. and then there's deep fried yamame, yamame soaked in sweet-shoyu and yamame sashimi. all this accompanied by ochazuke, rice with tea poured over it, and a sprinkling of the shells of shiso seeds.

this was just one of the many delicious meals i had in the area, others including sushi (with a skilled woman sushi chef... the first i've seen, gives me hope for my secret dream of becoming a sushi chef) and tempura (of incredible palate teasing varieties... egg, goya, and edamame included). drop me a line if you are planning to go to the area, and i can try harder to find out the names of these places.

but perhaps the best moments were unexpected. shizuko-san, my grandmother's sister, breaks open an album of old photos that midori-san and i start to look through. and there, shizuko-san and my grandmother, both young and sharply dressed, strike a pose with by the golden pavillion in kyoto. my grandmother's parents come to life, resting on a picnic blanket with my grandmother's brother as a child in my great grandfather's lap. and strangely, me-- a baby laughing at the table next to shizuko-san in her visit to los angeles. somehow all these years i had been there, amongst these memories in a place i'd never known.

after a week of immersion in delicious foods and incredibly loving and generous family, this has been one of the hardest places for me to leave so far.

pictures of food and family here.

yosakoi, yoshino and more

shikoku. land of mystery, intrigue, awe-inspiring scenery... and people who like to party.

almost naively i signed up to dance in kochi's yosakoi festival. on the phone the women told me cryptic directions that were almost like clues to finding some hidden treasure: "okay, at 3pm sharp, you're going to go to the otemai elementary school. find the team and tell them you want to dance. bring naruko." i didn't have any idea what naruko were let alone on what kind of massive scale the yosakoi festival takes place.

the streets fill with teams of colorfully dressed dancers, who dance coordinated rouitines to loud blaring music beating out of the backs of decorated buses. naruko are the little wooden clackers that the teams use in their routines and in general there is a lot of drinking and delicious street food in the thick, humid, summer heat.

my team was organized by kochi city, and bascially anyone can join. while others spend months rehearsing, we spent about a half hour learning a short and really easy routine that basically involves just clacking around the naruko, kicking and jumping around... to our bus band music... strangely, uh, james brown's "sex machine". i met a girl from osaka, kanako, who had biked down all the way from osaka to kochi (about 100 km a day). she was also wandering around solo in the festival, so we danced it up together and wandered around the crowded streets looking for okonomiyaki.

if you're interested, here's more on yosakoi.

i met so many cool folks along the way that in true mixtape form, here are shot outs to the people who made the trip worthwhile:

shaun in kochi: an aussie who spends his days making okonimiyaki, soba and the like at his job in the vibrant hirome market, and eats natto like three times a day. hm, he looks like an aussie, but... we took an impromptu trip to katsurahama (kochi beach) and ate grilled ika (squid) on scewers by the sea.

etsuko in awa ikeda: a korean japanese woman who cracked me up with her stories of living in mexico and leading tours of cancun for japanese tourists. she's got an awesome vision for alternative education. check it out (you may have to translate the page).

danny, doron and oran: three very cool israeli guys who allowed me to ride around with them in their rental car to explore the vine bridges of the iya valley. good conversation, absolutely gorgeous scenery and yummy soba. watch out for the ca-bo.

dave, teru, michael, jesse and the rest of the rafting crew of happy raft in the iya valley: not only do these guys run an awesome and professional rafting excursion down the yoshino river, but they also know how to have a good time. just watch out for markers when the sake gets passed around.

naoya, keitaro, tahashi and keiichi: my rafting buddies, these guys are japanese cops in one of the most tranquil areas of japan. we had a delicious bbq deep in the west iya valley alongside a river and mountains seeping in mist. special thanks to naoya for sending my lost swimsuit halfway across the country to get it back to me.

mariko: my second wwoof host, close to awa ikeda in the iya valley. a documentary filmmaker herself, she's working on a piece featuring sato hatsume, a benevolent elder woman who invites anyone going through hard times into her home, and cooks them onigiri from the heart. mariko's home is a refuge as well, with some killer weeds that i attacked, and after a long day's work we shared evening dinners of sushi, beer and good conversation.

dave: had a fun night out in matsuyama with this internationally travelled aussie who, if it came down to it, could curse you out in chinese. yum ume sours.

i have too many pictures. i'll post a smaller collection of them in a bit.

kyoto, ichiban!!

kyoto is a city with more temples per square foot than i've ever seen. evidently during world war two, this one guy, the us secretary of war, who had been to kyoto before and was "very much impressed by its ancient culture," took it off the list for the atomic bomb. it wasn't exactly out of the pure goodness of his own heart, but this is one of the reasons that kyoto's historic buildings remain incredibly well preserved. it's a gorgeous city. dripping with humid summer heat, it's modern urban japan meets temples, shrines and gardens crowded with people from all walks of life, all either bathing in temple fountains or seeking out shaved ice or mixed vanilla and green tea ice cream.

amidst the beauty of the city, met some hella cool people:

jan-- a sweedish dude who has seen the knife live and kept telling me outrageous things about sweden. (eg. so in sweden it's required by law that if any kid wants to, the school must hire a teacher and block out a number of hours per week to learn the language of his ancestry, or home country. this with the simple rationale-- if a kid knows the language, he can communicate with his parents better and will do better academically. um, yes people.)

taro-- a guy who is 75% kyushu and 25% who knows. he's spent a chunk of his youth in the states and is basically bi-national. he's the kind of guy who's got deep thoughts for everyday things and a kind and open-minded approach to life. he's also got a serious obsession with cro-magnons, and old japanese punk band.

shin-- a novelist with big ideas and a smile (wink wink) for every traveler who comes in the door at tour club or budget inn. he feels me on wwoof because he wwoofed in canada, when he was living there for a year. watch out for his mad skills in a forthcoming novel...

and i almost forgot. i fulfilled one of my main wishes for coming to japan in the summertime. obon odori. aapip ngec folks, we once did a go around about our favorite summer memories, and i don't know why one of my favorite summer memories completely slipped my mind. obon is basically the japanese version of day of the dead. as i kid, in the summertime, i used to show up at the local temple to practice obon odori (dancing), which essentially are a short series of slow simple steps repeated over and over again in a large circle, around music and a taiko drum. usually they're something like, the fisherman's dance or the miner's dance (imagine fishing moves or coal mining moves here). the best was at the end of practice when a lady would call out to the kids that it was time for popsicles, and we would all run over with our zoris clacking on the concrete.

well, so turns out that they actually do obon odori in japan. there was a night of obon odori in kyoto, complete with beer, dango (mochi on sticks), and different teams of local folks, all in yukatas, ready to dance. and so i jumped in...

check out more of my kyoto fotos.

ZASO.

it's the middle of a humid july in the outskirts of kyoto and i'm knee deep in mud. i'm wrentching foot long weeds out of the ground, between rows of long green rice stalks. every time i make another step, my foot comes down in a slow squish and water dancing spiders skake away frantically, and reddish brown salamanders squirm out of view. i'm head to toe covered, long sleeved working shirt and pants, boots to my knees, gloves, sleeve protectors... so sweat is dripping down my face.

and every time i pull a weed, the roots make a satisfying sound as they get sucked out of the mud.

so, this is wwoof. hard work? beautiful scenery? incredible organic food? an amazing cultural experience? something like indentured servitude? well, yes, possibly all of the above.

so there aren't leeches, as i had worried about, but what i didn't think about were the SPIDERS. and there are hella spiders. but strangely, with the uh, higher mission of weed pulling somehow they're not even bothering me. and the other day when i say a long snake slither out of the ride paddy into the the grass, i just laughed.

anyway, all i have to say is daaang, people in the countryside work hard!

and the people who are working the hardest-- my hosts, kei-san and setsu-san. kei-san is a loud and friendly guy in his sixties who twenty years ago left his job as a salaryman to pursue this dream of having his own country farm. now he has 4 tamboo (rice paddies), and in addition to receiving woof-ers they also take in those looking for a getaway from city life to spent a night or two for what they call an inaka taiken ("country-life experience").

setsu-san saw her son swinging from a vine under a massive tree and was inspired to start making baskets. the first basket was completely round, and then as the craft evolved, her baskets got funkier and more creative. now their living room is filled with vine crafts of different kinds and sizes-- baskets, vases, necklace pendants and "shadow lamps" that cast incredible dark shapes on the walls.

kei-san's english is kind of like a better version of my nihongo-- several key words and verbs strung together without any attention to grammar. so basically we talk in tarzan speak to each other. my first day on the rice paddy:

kei-san: kore wa RICE (pointing at the rice stalks). kore wa zaso desu (pointing at basically identical looking plant). english, WEED. japanese, ZASO. very same, ne? look--rice ga HAIR aru. zaso ga NO HAIR. you see? no hair, ne?

me (the whole time nodding): ah, hai, hai, yeah i see. wakarimashita.

and somehow we get by.

after working an hour and a half, kei-san will call out, "stefanie-san! breaktime!" and i trudge over across the bank now filled with fresh muddy weeds up to the top of the incline. we sit on two overturned milk crates there with a couple of bottles of water, munch on some sembe (rice crackers), and chat. the view is a tall narrow valley, with two sleep mountains on each side, covered in perfectly aligned, tall skinny trees. the tamboo (rice fields) glow an irridescent green, wind blowing slow waves through the fields, and nestled deep in the valley are a handful of old traditional style japanese houses, whose bright tile rooves glisten like the backs of fish in the sun.

check out more of my photos on flickr.

sugoi, na!

i'm going to start off by bringing you all up to speed. here's some stuff from my first 10 days in tokyo.

tsukiji fish market
...jet lagged and out of synch i woke up early saturday morning to wander through the tsukiji fish market, the 24 hour market where all the fish arrives when it gets to the city. i meandered in circles through piles of fresh tuna, salmon, urchin, octopus and anything else fish related you could possibly imagine-- dried fish, barrels of shaved bonito. and then a ton of other things, like little pickled veggies of all colors, candy, teas. the perimeter was lined with little ramen and kare-raisu stands where you could pick up a cheap meal...

the london bus
...last night rie and i went to a party on a london bus. it felt very absurd (maybe typically tokyo?) and was a lot of fun. some friends of hers rented out this big red double decker bus to drive around the city for a joint birthday thing, and we arrived on the second story of this bus to find little packaged meals and a slew of japanese young folks who were mostly linked in some way to fashion or design, all dressed up in sparkly, brightly colored or wacky clothing. we joy-rode around the city with mixed drinks in hand for a couple of hours and then got dropped off in the same place we were picked up...

family, friends & japanese hospitality
...my mom's cousin, yuko-san, is a sophisticated and stylish woman in her sixties, who speaks fluent english and has a great taste for food, wine and international travel. she has totally taken me in and brought me all over the city. in fact we just got back from going to a really nice sushi restaurant at the top of the tokyo press club and i am totally stuffed. one of the highlights was ika/squid with shiso leaf and ume..

...aika is a hella cool girl. she's a skate dancer and approaches life with a vivid and free spirit (as jenny likes to say). we kicked in asakusa, drank it up at an izakaya, and danced the night away at a soul club here in tokyo...

...i met keiko on the plane to japan and we ended up kicking it in tokyo. she just got back from living in nyc and is down with the fugees too. we wandered around harajuku and then met up with yuko-san for a luxurious rooftop hanabi (fireworks) party. the metros were packed with folks in yukata, and we almost got stuck inside...